Panels are just sections of a circle skirt. The main problem is to remembering to add seam allowances when making the cuts. It is best to make several copies of a panel pattern so that layout is easier.
8 Panel and 16 Panel Pattern
1. Draw Basic Circle Skirt using the Personal Circumference and Total Radius desired.
2. Draw a dashed line from the corner to the 45° center dot on the outer ring of the template. This will go right through the circumference numbers on the template.
3. Draw a solid cutting line ½ inch away from the stitching line. The larger area will be an 8 Panel Pattern.
4. Go to the smaller section of the pattern paper. Draw a dashed stitching line from the corner to the 22.5° dot on the outer ring.
5. Draw a solid cutting line ½ inch away from the stitching line. The larger area will be an 16 Panel Pattern. The area between the panel patterns is scrap.
6. Fold the panels in half, length wise, and mark the crease. This is the Straight of Grain.
The panels do not have to be all the same size in a skirt. Consider using four of the 8 panel size and eight of the 16 panel size. A print for the larger panels and coordinating solids for the smaller panels.
Hems - The ½ seam allowance at the bottom edge of the skirt allows a rolled hem to be made with either the serger or sewing machine. Using fishing line in the rolled hem will make the skirt stand out better and keep the edge crisper.
Biased Hem Facing
1. Cut a strip of fabric on the true 45° bias. A width of 2 inches is about the maximum that will ease smoothly. The length should be a little more than the circumference number on the hem cutting line. Or Wrights™ Bias Hem Facing can be used. The hem facing does not have to match the skirt fabric. A contrasting color looks good on the dance floor.
When working with a bias strip of fabric always treat it gently. There is something about a long piece that makes people want to pull on it 'to get it nice and smooth'. This will stretch out the strip and then it will shrink back when washed.
2. Lay the facing on the skirt, right sides together. Starting at one end sew the facing to the skirt with a ½ inch seam allowance. When you get all the way around, over lap about an inch and cut the excess off.
3. Press the seam allowance toward the hem facing.
4. Under stitch the seam allowance to the hem facing. For an extra lift to the skirt use a 2 mm wide by 4 mm long zigzag stitch and sew over 25 pound test fishing line.
The fishing line must come off the spools straight, like toilet paper. Do not set the spool on its flat end and put the fishing line off in a spiral. This will cause the line to twist on the skirt.
Keep the line loose. Sometimes the fabric will gather on the fishing line. Stop sewing, hold the fish line and chase the gathers toward the presser foot, pulling more fish line to back. DO NOT pull too hard or the hem of the skirt may become stretched out. Most of the hem is on the bias, so it stretches easily.
5. Press the hem facing to the skirt. Press hard with steam. The hem facing and skirt edge have been stretched out by the understitching. They need to shrunk back into place. Use a lot of school glue stick, don’t be stingy. Glue will hold the hem facing in place better than pins.
Using school glue stick will not hurt your machine. I learned this trick while working in a sewing machine repair shop. We never had a machine damaged by glue stick. The iron will dry the glue. If a mistake is made just spray it with water, peel it up try again.
There is no need to finish the upper edge of the facing because it is on the bias, it will not string out. Trying to turn under this edge, serge or zig zag it will stretch it out.
6. Sew the hem. I use invisible thread in both the bobbin and top. Increase the stitch length to 5 mm and decrease the tension to one. Click HERE for Invisible Thread info I sew about ¼ inch from the top edge, ½ inch up from the bottom and sometimes, right down the middle of the hem facing.
If anyone can see the invisible thread, you aren’t dancing fast enough.