2012
Kathy Roberts
kathy@4roberts.us
Making fabric bags is easy to do, once you determine how you are going to use your bag, what size of bag you’d like, and what kind of material you want to use for the bag. This document will describe 7 basic kinds of fabric bags.The first bag discussed in this session will be a basic bag with a “knife-edge” bottom. It has 2 sides with 3 seams and a finished top edge. It can have pockets, handles and may have some sort of closure.
The second bag uses the basic bag techniques, but the bottom corners will be rounded, giving it a classier look. It also has a zipper closure at the top edge. This bag is usually made with a handle – although loops can be attached to the top or back of the bag instead, allowing it to slip over a belt.
The third bag continues to build on the basic bag. Instead of a knife edge at the bottom, it has a gusset, which allows for more expansion. A zipper is sewn into the gusset. Corners can be rounded or square.
The forth bag is based on a brown paper sack. Like the knife edge bag, it has 2 sides with 3 seams. In addition to the seams, there are two extra sets of stitches at the bottom of the bag, which helps form a flat bottom bag. Using the iron, you will learn how to press the sides to simulate the edges of an ordinary brown bag.
The fifth bag is based on a grocery sack. It has a front and back with separate sides and bottom. Using the iron, you will learn how to press the bag and seams to create the typical brown paper bag folds. The bag will have a separate bottom, adding to the stability of the bag.
The sixth bag discussed here moves away from the basic bag format. This bag is based on a duffel bag as it is barrel shaped. A plate or any other round object that you pick will be the template for the sides. The body of the bag is a rectangle that is equal to the circumference of the side circles (distance around the circles). This bag has a zipper closure and straps. There can be pockets and can be lined.
The seventh bag is known as a taco. Square dancers will be interested in this bag since it is used to carry petticoats. It is made by connecting two round circles with a zipper. This bag has three clips on the edges to hold the bag together when it is folded in half. It has a strap for easy carrying. It can also have pockets so that you can carry your shoes and pettipants
with you in the bag.
Designing Phase
Before you cut out your bag, you need to determine how you are going to use your bag and what size it needs to be. Will your bag be a gift sack, a petticoat bag, a purse or a book bag? If you are making a gift sack you may want to use cotton, satin, or lace. If you are making a purse, will it be an evening bag out of satin or velvet or an everyday purse out of cotton or denim. Or perhaps you are designing a book bag, diaper bag, or a sack to carry your groceries in with a combination of cotton and denim or canvas.
The next stage is picking your fabric. For bags that will not be carrying a lot of weight, almost any kind of fabric will do. Bags that will be performing a heavy duty job need to be made out of heavier fabrics, like denims or canvas. You can also use colorful cottons as the lining of your bag if you use the heavier denim on the outside, or you can reverse this and have the heavy fabric be your lining and the colorful cotton on the outside of the bag.
Construction Phase - Cutting the Fabric
Most of the bags are cut out in the same manner. There are 3 ways that the fabric can be cut, depending on how much fabric you have and whether or not your fabric has an up and down pattern.
1. Cut two pieces of fabric, same size. Flip the pieces so that right sides are together. Stitch
around the two sides and the bottom of the bag. Finish the top edge.
2. Cut one piece of fabric, twice as long as you need it. Fold the material up and stitch the
sides closed. Finish the top edge. This method does not work when there is an up and down
to your material as design on one side will be upside down.
3. Cut one piece of fabric, twice as wide as you need it, plus 1” for seams. Fold the material
over and stitch the side and bottom closed. Finish the top edge. This method works when
there is an up and down to your material as the pattern on both sides will be heading in the
same direction
Measuring the Fabric
The size of your bag is determined by what you are planning on carrying in it. If you know what you will be carrying, you can make a basic pattern by drawing around the objects you will be carrying or by measuring the objects. If your contents are not flat, remember to consider its thickness when you are planning your bag.
Gift cards or relatively thin flat objects:
Measure the object from top to bottom and then side to side. Add 1/2” to each side and the bottom edge for seam allowance. If you are planning on finishing the top edge, add1-3” depending on how you are going to finish the top. This will give you an exact fit to get your object in and out easily, plan on adding an additional 1/2” – 1” to your side measurements for flat or thin objects. If you bag will be holding bulky items, measure the depth of the item and add that to your side measurements so that there will be room in your bag for the bulky item. For example, if you have a thin book that is 8 1/2” x 11” and is only about 3/4” inch thick, you should cut your fabric to the following measurements:
Width: 8 1/2” + 1” (seam allowances) + 1” (easy access) = 10.5”
Height: 11” = 1/2” (bottom edge seam allowance) + 2” (top edge w/fold over)=13 1/2”
Thick or bulky items:
With thicker items, you need to consider the thickness of the items in calculating how much fabric you need. If you have an object that is 6” x 8”, but is also about 5” thick, you will need to add additional fabric.
Width: 6” + 1” (seam allowances) + 1” (easy access) + 5” thickness = 13” width
Height: 8” + 1/2” (bottom seam) + 3” (top edge w/fold & Velcro) – 11 1/2” height
There may be some other adjustments needed depending on the item – you will need to play around with your bag to find what works the best for you.
Construction
Once you have cut out your bag, you have several choices to make regardless of which bag you are making:
Interfacing: Interfacing will make your bag stiff and not so droopy. Bags that will be carrying heavy objects will probably last better and be more pleasing if they have interfacing. If you want to use interfacing in your bag, apply the interfacing to the back of both pieces prior to the next steps.
Handles: You can purchase ready-made handles, or make your own out of fabric, or use 1” webbing, depending on how the bag will be used. Handles can be sewn around the whole bag to add strength to the bag, attached at seams, or attached to the side of the bag. If you are going to make your handle, determine how long you will want the handle and how
wide. Cut your fabric to the length, plus 1” for seam allowance and 4 times the desired width. To assemble the handle, fold the fabric in half width wise – apply interfacing to the inside of one side of the handle. Fold the raw edges inside and stitch closed. Handles should be attached after the interfacing, but before the lining. If you are putting a zipper pocket on the outside of your bag, be sure to put the handles under the pocket so that your pocket is usable.
Pockets: Pockets need to be attached prior to sewing your bag together. Pockets can be made by taking a piece of fabric and folding it in half (right sides together) and stitching around two of the three remaining edges. Once stitched, turn the pocket right side out and fold the side with the raw edge to the inside and stitch in place. If you want one large pocket, cut your fabric the same width as your bag, but twice the pocket height. Fold the pocket in half, and position on the bag with the raw edges of the sides and bottom even. Stitch in place. The raw edges will be caught in the seam allowance when the bag is assembled. Pockets can be held closed with zippers, Velcro, or buttons.
Zipper pockets: Finish the top edge of your pocket and attach one side of the front of the zipper tape to the back of your pocket. Position the pocket on your bag and mark the position of the pocket’s top edge. Turn the pocket upside down, and
position the face of the zipper to the purse. Sew the loose edge of the zipper tape close to the zipper. Flip the pocket down and be sure the zipper works. If the zipper works, stitch over both ends of the zipper close to the edge of your bag fabric. Trim off excess tape. The raw edges will be sealed into the seam allowance.
Pockets closed with Velcro: Determine the center of your pocket. Attach the soft Velcro (loops) to the top inside edge of your pocket by stitching around the Velcro. Position the pocket on your bag where you plan to attach it. Mark where the Velcro should go. Stitch around the Velcro. Attach the pocket to the bag with the Velcro. Pin the pocket in place and stitch.
Pockets closed with buttons: Fold the top edge under between 1” – 2”, depending on the size of your button. Insert interfacing between the fold and the pocket back. Determine the center of your pocket and make the buttonhole on the folded edge of the pocket. Position the pocket on your bag where you plan to attach it. Mark where the button should go. Sew on the button. Attach the pocket to the bag with the button. Pin the pocket in place and stitch around the pocket sides and bottom.
Bag closure: If you decide you want your bag held closed, you can use zippers, Velcro, ties, or buttons.
Bags closed with a zipper: Fold the top edge under 1/2”. Open up the zipper and attach the face of the zipper lining to the back edges of the bag. On the first 4 bags, I use a zipper that is at least as long as the opening. On the barrel bag/duffel bag, try to use a zipper that is either a separating zipper or is at least 2” longer than the bag’s opening. If you use a zipper that is the exact length, you may run into trouble stitching it in place if the bag is on the small size. You won’t have the same
problems with a large duffel bag. Once the zipper is in place, close the zipper and stitch across both ends. Be sure to catch raw edges into the side seams.
Bags closed with Velcro: Fold the top edge under about 2” to add strength to the top edge. Center the Velcro approximately 1/4”- 1/2” from the top edge and stitch in place.
Bags closed with Buttons: Fold the top edge of your bag under between 1” – 3”, depending on the size of your bag and button. Insert interfacing between the fold and the bag. Make a buttonhole on the front of your bag approximately 1-2” from top edge. Sew the button to the inside of the back of the bag so that when it is buttoned, the button goes through the front of the bag.
Bags closed with ties: You can either make a casing for your tie or tie the bag shut by wrapping ribbon around the neck of the bag. Fold the top under 2-3” for either style. If you are making a casing – Make two button holes going vertically
approximately 2 3/4” from the edge. The button holes should be 1/2” – 1” apart, depending on the size of your bag and your cord or ribbon. Cut the buttonholes. Fold the top under 2”. Stitch around the top of the bag approximately 1/2” from the
edge and again 1 1/2” from the folded edge. The buttonholes should be inside of the
casing stitching on the outside of the bag. Insert the ribbon or cord through the button holes. Make sure the ribbon or cords are long enough that they will not easily fall out. Tie knots on the ends of your cord or ribbon.
Lining: Cut two more pieces of fabric with the same measurements as the bag. If you are sewing to the lining, attach the pockets, and assemble in the same way you assembled the outside of the bag, without the handles. Fold the top edge down 1/2”. Turn the lining right side out. Turn the bag inside out and slip the lining over the bag. Fit the bag and lining together matching corners or seams and stitch into place. Turn the bag right side out and smooth the lining into place.
The Bags
(1) Basic Bag – Knife Edges
The basic bag is the simplest of the bags to make. It has two sides and may or may not have pockets, handles, or closures – it may also be lined.
1. Cut both sides of the bag in one of the 3 ways previously described
2. Optional - Attach interfacing to the wrong side of the bag to add stability
3. Add pockets, if desired
4. Add embellishments and handles at this time
5. If your bag with will closed with a zipper
a. Fold the top edges to the inside of the bag
b. Attach the zipper to the folded edge
6. Stitch the bag together at the sides and bottom, wrong side out
7. Turn and press the bag
8. Lining
a. If you are going to line the bag, cut and stitch the lining following the same directions
b. Press the lining
c. Turn the lining right side out and the bag inside out.
d. Stitch around the top edge, stop approximately 2” from your starting point for turning the bag
e. Turn the bag, press and stitch around the top edge.
9. If the bag is going to close with Velcro, attach it to the top edge of the bag onopposite sides.
10. Give your bag a final pressing.
(2) Bag with Rounded Bottom Edges & Zipper Closing
1. Cut two pieces of fabric.
2. Optional - Attach interfacing to the wrong side of the bag to add stability
3. Round the bottom edges. An easy way to do this is to fold the bags in half matching sides. Cut both bottom corners at
the same time
4. The bag is ready for pockets
a. If you are attaching Velcro to your pocket, it is easier to attach the Velcro to the bag and pocket before you sew the
pocket to the bag.
5. If your bag with will closed with a zipper
a. Fold the top edges to the inside of the bag
b. Attach the zipper to the folded edge
6. Add embellishments and handles at this time
7. Stitch the bag together with right sides together
8. Turn and press the bag
9. Lining
a. If you are going to line the bag, cut and stitch the lining following the
same directions
b. Press the lining from the back side
c. Turn the lining right side out and the bag inside out.
d. Stitch around the top edge, stop approximately 2” from your starting point for turning the bag
e. Turn the bag, press and stitch around the top edge.
10. If the bag is going to close with Velcro, attach it to the top edge of the bag on opposite sides.
11. Give your bag a final pressing.
(3) Bag with Rounded Bottom Edges, Zipper Closing & Gusset
The bag with a gusset usually has rounded corners to make attaching your gusset easier. The gusset allows the bag to expand for more items. A zipper is sewn into the gusset. The handle is attached to the gusset.
1. Cut the front and back of your bag
2. Optional - Attach interfacing to the wrong side of the bag to add stability
3. Use your scissors to round the corners. An easy way to do this is to fold the fabric in half matching sides and half again
matching top & bottom and cut all corners
4. The bag is ready for pockets.
5. Add embellishments at this time
6. Make your handle for the bag. It will be added when you stitch your gusset together
7. Gusset:
a. Measure across the top side of your bag and down each side approximately 1-3”. The size of the bag, and the opening
you desire determines how far down you should measure. Use a zipper that is either the same length or longer than
this measurement.
b. Cut 2 pieces of fabric 2” wide & the same length as the measurement above (adjust for a wider gusset)
a. Fold under 1/2” on one side of both of the pieces
b. Sew zipper to the wrong side of the folded edges
c. Measure around the bottom of the bag and up to the point that you measured for the top zipper gusset on both sides.
d. Cut the bottom gusset 3” (or equal to the width of the zipper piece) by the measurement from “c”. The additional 3”
includes the seam allowance needed to attach gusset pieces plus a little extra to ease around the corners of the bag
e. Attach handle to the ends of the zipper gusset
f. Attach the bottom gusset to the zipper/handle gusset. Your gusset should fit loosely around the outer edge of your bag
g. Find the center point of your zipper section and the bottom section. Pin sections together, matching the center points
h. Gently ease the additional amount of fabric on the corners. Pin
i. Stitch the gusset to the bag
j. Repeat for the other side. Be sure your zipper is open or you will have difficulty turning your bag
k. Turn your bag and press
8. Lining
a. If you are going to line the bag, stitch the lining following the directions for the bag and bottom gusset.
i. For the top gusset, fold over one edge on each piece.
ii. Sew the top gusset to the bottom gusset, forming a circle
b. Press the lining
c. Turn the lining right side out and the bag inside out.
d. Attach the lining to the edge of the zipper back.
e. Turn bag right side out and press.
(4)Bag With Pressed Flat Bottom
The bag with a pressed bottom was inspired by a small brown paper bag. It has two
sides and may or may not have pockets, handles, or closures. It may also be lined. The
bottom of the bag has an extra set of stitches which will form the bottom. The sides and
bottom of the bag are then pressed allowing the bag to open neatly.
1. Cut both sides of the bag
2. Optional - Attach interfacing to the wrong side of the bag to add stability
3. Add pockets, if desired
4. You may also wish to add embellishments and handles at this time
5. Stitch the bag together.
6. On the bottom, fold the sides so that the side seams lines up with the center of the bottom. This will form a triangle. With
the seam side up, stitch across the triangle, forming the base of the triangle. The distance you stitch will be determined by
the size of the bottom you wish. Stitching across 2” from the tip of the triangle will form a 2” base. Repeat on the other side
7. Press. This will give you a bag that has two triangles set off by stitching. Turn the tips of the triangles towards the bottom
of the bag and press.
8. Turn the bag right side out
9. Fold the bag along the implied bottom edge of the bag created by the bottoms of the triangles and press
10. Repeat for the other side.
11. Press the side seams to the inside of the bag, following the implied seams, forming a side that resembles a
brown paper bag.
12. The bottom can be stabilized by inserting a piece of plastic canvas cut to fit
a. The plastic canvas can be wrapped in fabric and placed in the bottom
b. Or the plastic canvas can be inserted into a “sleeve” using coordinating fabric which will be set inside the bottom.
i. The sleeve is made like a basic, knife edge bag.
ii. Insert the plastic canvas and stitch shut using your sewing machine and stitch over the holes in the canvas.
13. Lining
a. If you are going to line the bag, cut the lining the same size as the bag
b. Stitch the lining following the same directions for the bag
c. Press the lining
d. Turn the lining right side out and the bag inside out
e. Stitch around the top edge, leave approximately 2” for turning
f. Turn the bag, press and stitch around the top edge
14. If you are going to use a zipper, Velcro or button closure attach them now
15. Give your bag a final pressing. Use spray starch to stiffen the edges
Grocery Sack –
(5)Grocery Sack - the edges & bottom are a separate piece of fabric that are attached with square corners at the bottom of the bag
The bag with a pressed bottom is based upon a small brown paper bag. It has a front, back, 2 sides, and a bottom. It may or may not have pockets, handles, or closures. It may also be lined.
1. Cut the front and back of the bag
2. Optional: Attach interfacing to the wrong side of the front & back to add stability
3. Add pockets, if desired
4. Add embellishments and handles at this time
5. Cut sides and bottom.
a. To determine the length of this piece, add the length of the sides and the bottom together.
b. Cut in one piece, or with a seam in the middle of the bottom
6. Fold the side/bottom piece in half length wise.
7. The sides & bottom piece will be attached to the front and back with square corners at the bottom of the bag
a. While pinning the sides to the front/ back panels, make a 1/2” nip in the long edge of the side fabric 1/2” from the
bottom edge of the front/back panels.
b. Turn at the corner and continue pinning across the bottom of the bag until you are 1/2” from the edge of the bottom of
the front/back panel.
c. Make a 1/2” nip in the long bottom/side pieces pin at the edge of the nip
d. Turn and continue pinning up the edge of the front/back panel
e. Turn the bag so you can stitch on the side/bottom piece of fabric. Be sure that where the side meets the bottom edges,
that the nipped out piece forms a 1/2” square with the front/back panels showing
8. Make handles or use webbing – attach at the top edge of the bag
9. Serge or finish the top of the bag, catching the handles
10. Turn, hem the bag or line it.
11. Cut a piece of plastic canvas for the bottom
12. Press the bag
a. Press out wrinkles
b. Line up the side stitching and press two side edges together with the sidepiece on the inside.
c. Repeat for the other side.
d. Fold the bottom edge up and press so that the bottom resembles a brown paper bag.
(6)Barrel Bag or Duffel Bag
The barrel bag is based on the duffel bags that are used to carry gym clothes. The pattern for the sides is made by tracing around any round or oval object that is the size that you would like to make your bag. A plate or bowl makes an excellent pattern. The body of the bag is a rectangle that is equal to the circumference of the side circles (distance around the bag). This bag has a zipper closure and straps. It can have pockets, and it can be lined.
1. Trace around your plate or bowl
2. Cut two pieces of fabric following the circle outline
3. Measure around the outer edge of your circle (circumference) and add 1” for seam allowance
4. Cut one rectangle piece equal to the circumference measurement in #3 (the sides), by the desired width of your bag (be
sure you add 1” for seam allowance; so, if you want a bag 12” wide, the width of your rectangle will be 13”)
5. If you are going to interface your bag, attach interfacing to all three pieces
6. You are now ready to attach pockets to the sides (rectangle piece) of your bag. Remember that the middle 1/3 of the bag
will be the bottom. Attach the pockets to the top 1/3 of each side of the raw edge. The pockets need to be at least 1”
below the raw edges of the top edges. Be sure to have at least the top and bottom edges of your pockets finished. The
sides can be placed under the handles or extended to edge of the bag and encased in the seams
7. Handles can be attached either on top of the pockets or under the pockets
8. Fold the raw edge on the short side of the rectangle under 1/2” (top edges)
9. Attach the zipper to the inside of the short edge of the rectangle, along the folded edge. If you do not use a separating
zipper, be sure to use a zipper that is 2” longer than the short edge of the rectangle. If you try to use a zipper that is the
exact length, you will have difficulty sewing the zipper. This is the body of the bag
10. Move the zipper mechanism inside the edges of the bag. Trim off the extra zipper Attach the circles sides to the body of
the bag
11. If you are going to line your bag, assemble the lining following the above directions, leaving out the zipper and handles
12. Turn the lining right side out and attach to bag on the back of the zipper
13. Turn the bag right side out and press
(7)Taco
The taco is two large circles of fabric which are held together with a zipper. The Taco is
used to carry square dance slips. Depending on the size of your slips, a Taco can carry 2-5
slips conveniently while you are traveling. Check with your airlines to see if you can check
the Taco as baggage. The Taco should be made with strong fabric such as denim or water
resistant fabric used for outerwear. Do not use parachute fabric as this is too lightweight.
1. Cut two large circles the circumference of your square dance slips, plus about 2”
a. Two different ways of drawing a circle if you do not have a circle tool
i. Draw a large circle using a pencil tied to a string, the diameter of the bag. Pin the string into the middle of the bag and
draw a circle pulling the string tight and putting the pencil down on the fabric.
ii. Mark the center of your fabric. Put the end of a ruler on the mark and measure out towards the edge of the fabric half
of the circumference you want your bag and make a mark. Move the ruler slightly and make a mark. Continue until you
have drawn a complete circle
2. Attach a large zipper to the edges of your circle.
a. If you cannot find an extra-large zipper to go around your bag, use two largeones and meet in the center
i. Look for zipper tape and pull/handles – they are available separately
ii. Sleeping bag zippers may also work depending on the size of your Taco
3. Attach handles to the middle of the bag, extending beyond the edges to desired length
4. Attach a piece of ribbon or fabric to the inside of the bag to hold slips in place
5. Attach clips to the edge to hold the bag closed
6. Pockets can be added to the outside and inside for shoes, belts and petti-pants
Extra - Credit Card insert for purse pockets.
Credit cards or store gift cards can be store in small pockets about 1/2” – 3/4” larger (finished measurements) than the credit cards measurements. Or, if you want to try to create aninsert:
1. Take a piece of lining fabric that is 8” x 23”. Fold the fabric in half length wise. Take a pair of sharp scissors and nip into
the fabric about 1/4” approximately 1/2” from the top edge of the fabric.
2. Nip the fabric again at 2” (2 1/2” from the top)
3. Nip the fabric 1 1/2” from the 2nd nip (4” from the top)
4. Nip 2” from the above nip
5. Nip 1 1/2” from the above nip, continue until you are to the end of the fabric
6. Open the fabric up and press flat
7. Fold the top edge to the back of the fabric at your 1/2” nip and press
8. Fold the fabric right side together at the 1st 2” nip and press
9. Fold the fabric back sides together at the 1st 1 1/2” nip and press (1 set)
10. Fold the fabric, right sides together at the next 2” nip and press
11. Fold the fabric, back sides together at the next 1 1/2” nip and press
12. Continue until you until you have 5 complete sets of folds
13. Press the end of the fabric toward the back 2” from the last set
14. This is now ready to insert in your purse. It can be put into a seam; raw side edges bound or folded to the back.
15. Stitch the pocket to your lining on all four sides.
Note…this does not work on the inside of a duffle bag style purse. Cards will fall out. Attaching a separate flap to cover the cards also doesn’t work and is a nuisance. You need to make an outside pocket for the credit card insert for a duffle bag style purse. Attach the insert to the inside of the pocket, against the purse – not the outer flap of the pocket.